Exploring South America: Rio to Santiago via Iguazu, Buenos Aires and Patagonia

We kept the first day deliberately simple and stayed around Copacabana, Ipanema and Arpoador rather than trying to cross Rio straight after the flight. Walking the beachfront is a better introduction than sitting in traffic: kiosks, runners, football games and the curve of the bay make the city feel lived-in rather than staged. We liked ending at Arpoador, where people gather on the rocks for sunset and the mountains start to silhouette behind the beach.

Lunch was Pastel de Feira. Pastel de Feira is exactly the sort of informal Brazilian food that fits a first day like this. The thin pastry is fried until blistered and crisp, then filled with ingredients such as minced beef, cheese or palm heart. It works as a quick lunch without taking us away from the beach for too long.

Later, Moqueca Baiana was the dish that anchored dinner. Moqueca Baiana gives the evening a completely different character. The Bahian fish stew combines seafood with coconut milk, dendê oil, peppers, tomatoes, coriander and lime, bringing together richness, heat and acidity in one of Brazil’s most distinctive regional dishes.

For dessert, we finished with Brigadeiro. Brigadeiro was a simple way to finish the first day. Made with condensed milk and chocolate before being rolled into small truffles, it is very different from the savoury food earlier in the day and gives the evening a recognisably Brazilian ending.

This was the day for Rio's big landmarks, but we still tried not to turn it into a race. Christ the Redeemer works best early, then Santa Teresa gives you a completely different side of the city with old houses, steep streets and the yellow tram. We also stopped at the Selarón Steps before drifting back towards Ipanema; the contrast between the monumental views from Corcovado and the close-up street life below is what makes the day interesting.

Most journeys around the city were around 30-60 minutes each. We grouped nearby sights together, which kept the day feeling relaxed rather than spending half of it in traffic.

Pão de Queijo made a very good lunch. Chewy Minas cheese bread made with cassava starch, eggs, milk and queijo Minas or parmesan.

That evening, we ordered Feijoada. Brazil’s iconic black bean stew with pork, sausage, orange, farofa, rice and greens.

Dessert was Quindim. Glossy coconut and egg-yolk custard baked until golden with a bright yellow top.

Flying into Foz do Iguaçu changes the scale of the trip immediately. The Brazilian side of the falls is about the panorama: long views across the cascades, then the walk towards the Devil's Throat where the noise and spray keep building. We left time simply to stand there rather than treating the boardwalk as another attraction to get through quickly.

We were in the air for roughly 2 hours, although the airport transfers made the travel day feel longer.

By lunchtime, we went for Coxinha. Teardrop chicken croquettes with shredded chicken filling and a crisp golden breadcrumb shell.

Dinner was Churrasco de Picanha. Brazilian barbecue picanha grilled with coarse salt until deeply browned outside and juicy within.

We ended the meal with Pudim de Leite Condensado. Brazilian condensed milk flan with dark caramel and a silky wobble.

The Argentine side deserves most of a day because the experience is much more immersive. The upper and lower circuits take you closer to individual falls, while the train and long boardwalk towards Garganta del Diablo make the journey part of the visit. It is one of those days where waterproofs help, but accepting that you will probably get damp is more realistic.

The border crossing took around 1-2 hours plus queues. We kept the rest of the day flexible because immigration queues can turn a short distance into a much longer journey.

For lunch, we chose Empanadas Salteñas. Juicy north-western baked empanadas filled with beef, potato, onion, egg, olives and warm paprika.

For the main meal, we went for Bife de Chorizo con Chimichurri. Thick sirloin steaks grilled hard and served with fresh chimichurri.

A final plate of Flan Mixto was enough for dessert. Caramel flan served with dulce de leche and whipped cream.

We started in San Telmo, where the older streets, antique shops and cafés make a good contrast with the colour and noise of La Boca later on. Around Plaza Dorrego it is worth slowing down, then in La Boca we stayed near the main visitor areas around Caminito rather than wandering aimlessly. The day feels much better if you leave space for a late lunch and an even later dinner, because Buenos Aires really does run on a different clock.

The flight itself took about 2 hours; once airport time was added, the move occupied most of the morning.

Lunch was Choripán Argentino. Argentinian chorizo in crusty bread with chimichurri and salsa criolla.

Later, Milanesa Napolitana was the dish that anchored dinner. Milanesa Napolitana made dinner feel connected to the region rather than like another restaurant stop on a route. It was rich and substantial, and a glass of Malbec made far more sense here than treating the wine as an afterthought.

For dessert, we finished with Alfajores de Maicena. Alfajores de Maicena was a sweet, comforting finish and a good reason to sit for another twenty minutes.

We used the second Buenos Aires day for Recoleta and Palermo. Recoleta Cemetery is much more interesting when you read a little of the stories behind the mausoleums rather than just photographing Eva Perón's tomb, and the nearby Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes is an easy cultural stop. By late afternoon we moved into Palermo for cafés, wine and a proper parrilla meal without watching the clock.

Getting between neighbourhoods usually took around 15-40 minutes between neighbourhoods. We planned around areas rather than individual landmarks, which made the city much easier to enjoy.

Provoleta con Chimichurri made a very good lunch. Grilled provolone cheese with crisp edges, molten centre, oregano, chilli and chimichurri.

That evening, we ordered Asado Argentino. The Argentinian mixed grill: beef ribs, chorizo, morcilla and slow fire with chimichurri. It was rich and substantial, and a glass of Malbec made far more sense here than treating the wine as an afterthought.

Dessert was Chocotorta. No-bake chocolate biscuit cake with dulce de leche and cream cheese.

El Calafate is a small place compared with the cities earlier in the trip, so we treated arrival day as a reset. The main street is easy to walk, the lake gives the town an open Patagonian feel, and the Glaciarium museum is useful if you want some context before seeing the ice fields properly. The real pleasure was slowing down before the long glacier day ahead.

The flight was around 3 hours, which still left enough of the day to settle in without racing straight into sightseeing.

By lunchtime, we went for Trucha Patagónica con Manteca y Limón. Patagonian trout cooked with butter, lemon and parsley.

Dinner was Cordero Patagónico al Asador. Patagonian lamb cooked slowly beside fire until smoky, crisp-edged and tender. It was rich and substantial, and a glass of Malbec made far more sense here than treating the wine as an afterthought.

We ended the meal with Panqueques con Dulce de Leche. Thin pancakes rolled with dulce de leche, sometimes caramelised on top.

Perito Moreno is one of those places where the boardwalks are not a compromise; they are part of the experience. Different terraces give completely different views of the glacier face, and every so often the deep cracking sound makes everyone stop talking because a section of ice may be about to calve. We spent longer than expected here and resist the temptation to rush back to town.

The drive from El Calafate to Perito Moreno took about an hour and a half each way. The scenery made the journey feel shorter than the clock suggested, and we allowed extra time for viewpoints rather than rushing the glacier itself.

For lunch, we chose Empanadas Salteñas. Juicy north-western baked empanadas filled with beef, potato, onion, egg, olives and warm paprika.

For the main meal, we went for Cordero Patagónico al Asador. Patagonian lamb cooked slowly beside fire until smoky, crisp-edged and tender. It was rich and substantial, and a glass of Malbec made far more sense here than treating the wine as an afterthought.

A final plate of Rogel Argentino was enough for dessert. Crisp pastry layers filled with dulce de leche and topped with Italian meringue.

El Chaltén is the hiking day. Even a shorter trail gives huge views towards Fitz Roy, while stronger walkers can make a much bigger day of it. The town itself is tiny and practical rather than polished, which actually suits the route; after hours outside, a big dinner and an early night feel much more appealing than trying to manufacture nightlife.

We were on the road for roughly 3 hours each way. The changing scenery made the journey worthwhile, and stopping when something looked interesting kept it from feeling like a transfer.

Lunch was Locro Criollo. Hearty corn, bean, squash and meat stew finished with paprika chilli oil.

Later, Bife de Chorizo con Chimichurri was the dish that anchored dinner. Thick sirloin steaks grilled hard and served with fresh chimichurri. It was rich and substantial, and a glass of Malbec made far more sense here than treating the wine as an afterthought.

For dessert, we finished with Budín de Pan con Dulce de Leche. Argentinian bread pudding with caramel and dulce de leche.

After the long journey north, we kept Santiago relatively compact and centred the day on Bellavista and Lastarria. La Chascona gives an intimate look at Pablo Neruda's world, while the surrounding streets are full of murals, cafés and bars. It is an easy area to wander without an exact plan, especially once the evening cools down.

The routing took up much of the day, which made a slower arrival far more realistic than trying to cram in several attractions.

Empanadas de Pino made a very good lunch. Empanadas de Pino gave lunch a strong sense of place: comforting, generous and more interesting than grabbing something generic.

That evening, we ordered Pastel de Choclo. Pastel de Choclo was rich, comforting and substantial, the sort of dinner that made sense after a full day out. A Chilean red alongside it made the dinner feel connected to the vineyards beyond the city.

Dessert was Leche Asada. Leche Asada ended the meal simply, with enough sweetness to feel indulgent without becoming another event to schedule.

For the final Santiago day we went back to the historic centre around Plaza de Armas, then made time for the Museum of Memory and Human Rights. It is not a light museum, but it adds important context to Chile's recent history and stops the city from becoming just another collection of attractive neighbourhoods. Later, Lastarria and Cerro Santa Lucía gave the day a softer finish before dinner and wine.

Most journeys around the city were around 10-30 minutes. We grouped nearby sights together, which kept the day feeling relaxed rather than spending half of it in traffic.

By lunchtime, we went for Sopaipillas with Pebre. Sopaipillas with Pebre was a hearty, traditional choice that suited a day spent mostly on foot.

Dinner was Cazuela de Vacuno. Cazuela de Vacuno felt like the right main meal for the evening: deeply flavoured, generous and worth sitting down for properly. A Chilean red alongside it made the dinner feel connected to the vineyards beyond the city.

We ended the meal with Torta de Mil Hojas. Torta de Mil Hojas was the sort of dessert that made us stay at the table a little longer.