Japan by Rail: Tokyo to Hiroshima via Kyoto and Osaka

Tokyo makes more sense in pieces. We chose two or three neighbourhoods with very different personalities and use the train between them, rather than trying to 'see Tokyo' in one sweep. A market, a small museum and late ramen give the day a more human shape.

Getting between neighbourhoods usually took around 15-45 minutes. We planned around areas rather than individual landmarks, which made the city much easier to enjoy.

Gyoza made a very good lunch. Japanese pan-fried dumplings with pork, cabbage, garlic chives and crisp lacy bottoms.

That evening, we ordered Shoyu Ramen. Tokyo-style soy sauce ramen with clear chicken broth, springy noodles, chashu, egg and menma.

Dessert was Daifuku Mochi. Soft glutinous rice mochi wrapped around sweet red bean paste.

The second Tokyo day is a chance to go deeper. We picked a museum in Ueno or a quieter district, then spend the afternoon somewhere residential enough to see daily life between the stations. Shaved ice or another cold dessert is a welcome pause if the weather is warm.

Local journeys were generally around 15-45 minutes. That was manageable, but we still avoided bouncing backwards and forwards across the city.

By lunchtime, we went for Nigiri Sushi. Hand-shaped sushi rice topped with fresh fish, wasabi and brushed soy.

Dinner was Chicken Teriyaki. Glazed Japanese chicken thighs cooked with soy sauce, mirin, sake and sugar.

We ended the meal with Kakigori. Japanese shaved ice with syrup, condensed milk and fruit or matcha toppings.

The bullet train to Kyoto is part of the fun, but once there we would avoid trying to see ten temples. Two or three carefully chosen sites, a walk through an old lane and a museum or craft stop are enough. The city rewards quiet moments more than speed.

The train took about 2 hours. We used the journey as a chance to slow down, watch the landscape change and arrive with some energy left for the afternoon.

For lunch, we chose Agedashi Tofu. Crisp potato-starch tofu served in warm tentsuyu-style dashi with grated daikon and spring onion.

For the main meal, we went for Sukiyaki. Japanese hotpot of thin beef, tofu, shirataki, negi and mushrooms in sweet soy warishita.

A final plate of Matcha Roll Cake was enough for dessert. Light matcha sponge rolled with lightly sweetened cream and red bean.

Osaka is less formal and more immediately fun. We spent time around the market and older entertainment districts, then left room for the Museum of Housing and Living or another indoor stop before street food takes over. The night should feel louder and looser than Kyoto.

It was roughly 30 minutes on the train. Rather than seeing that as lost time, we enjoyed having a few quiet hours between two very different cities.

Lunch was Takoyaki. Osaka octopus balls with dashi batter, spring onion, pickled ginger, takoyaki sauce and bonito flakes.

Later, Okonomiyaki was the dish that anchored dinner. Savoury Japanese cabbage pancake with pork, okonomiyaki sauce, mayonnaise, aonori and bonito flakes.

For dessert, we finished with Japanese Purin. Japanese caramel custard pudding with a soft set and bittersweet caramel.

Hiroshima needs emotional space. We visited the Peace Memorial Museum and park without trying to squeeze them between other attractions, then use the rest of the day to walk by the river or take a slower meal. The city is vibrant and modern, which makes the contrast with the museum even more powerful.

The rail leg was around 1.5 hours, long enough to feel like a proper transition but comfortable enough that the day did not disappear into travel.

Sunomono made a very good lunch. Cucumber and wakame vinegar salad with a light rice-vinegar dressing.

That evening, we ordered Ebi Tempura. Light Japanese prawn and vegetable tempura with crisp batter and tentsuyu dipping sauce.

Dessert was Dorayaki. Two honey pancakes sandwiched around sweet red bean paste.