Mapo Doufu

Shop for proper Chinese pantry ingredients: Chinkiang vinegar, Shaoxing wine, Chinese light and dark soy, Pixian doubanjiang, dried shiitake, sesame paste, glutinous rice flour, fresh ginger and spring onions. Buy fish and poultry as fresh as possible.

Use the named regional ingredients where they define the dish. Substituting generic chilli sauce for doubanjiang or ordinary vinegar for Chinkiang vinegar will flatten the result.

The common mistake is treating every Chinese recipe like a generic stir-fry. These dishes need steaming, poaching, braising, resting, folding, pulling, chilling or reducing according to their region and technique.

Prepare everything before heat is applied, respect the core regional seasoning and do not drown the dish in generic sauce.

Look for the traditional texture: springy noodles, tender fish, glossy braises, crisp duck skin, silky tofu, chewy rice cake, cold crunchy salads or flaky pastry depending on the dish.

Plate with restraint and context: rice with braises, pancakes with duck, vinegar with dumplings, syrup with sweets, and simple bowls for noodles and soups.

Sauces, fillings, braises and dessert components can often be made ahead; steamed fish, crisp pancakes, fried dough, fresh noodles and cold salads are best finished close to serving.

Store covered in the fridge for up to 2 days where suitable. Cool rice, seafood and tofu dishes quickly and reheat gently. Reheat braises gently with a splash of water or stock. Steam dumplings and rice cakes. Avoid reheating delicate fish, fresh cold salads and crisp fried items unless necessary.