New Mexico Carne Adovada

Buy the ingredient that defines the dish first: fresh seafood, good beef, ripe fruit, stone-ground cornmeal, real cheese, proper chillies or quality beans.

Avoid bland shortcuts. Use fresh aromatics, enough seasoning, proper stock, good butter or oil, and the right cut of meat or type of seafood.

The most common mistake is rushing a slow dish, over-thickening a sauce, under-seasoning corn or beans, or adding so many extras that the regional identity disappears.

Cook with confidence but keep the dish honest: brown well, season in layers, rest meats properly and finish with acidity, herbs, pickles or sauce only where they belong.

Look for the dish-specific cue: tender meat, crisp crust, bubbling filling, glossy sauce, cooked seafood, set custard or fruit juices thickened at the edge.

Serve generously and naturally. American regional food should look abundant, warm and inviting rather than over-styled.

Many sauces, stews, pies, custards, braises and barbecue components can be prepared ahead, then finished close to serving.

Store covered in the fridge for up to 2 days where suitable. Seafood, fried foods and dressed salads are best eaten fresh. Reheat gently until piping hot. Fried items re-crisp best in an oven, while stews, beans and braises improve slowly on the hob.